Ingredient glossary

Korean skincare labels are full of ingredients you may not have heard of. Here's what the most common ones do, who they suit, and anything to watch for. Tap an ingredient's name to shop products that contain it.

Soothing and calming

Centella asiatica (cica)
A plant used for centuries to calm skin. Helps with redness and irritation and supports the skin barrier. Good for: sensitive, irritated or breakout-prone skin.

Heartleaf (houttuynia cordata)
A soothing plant extract that helps calm redness and oiliness. Good for: sensitive and blemish-prone skin.

Mugwort (ssuk, 쑥)
A Korean favorite for calming and comforting stressed skin. Good for: sensitive and reactive skin.

Propolis
A resin made by bees. Soothing and nourishing, and gives skin a healthy glow. Watch for: skip it if you're allergic to bees or bee products.

Hydrating and plumping

Hyaluronic acid
Draws water into the skin so it looks plumper and smoother. Tip: apply to slightly damp skin and follow with a moisturizer. Good for: every skin type, especially dehydrated skin.

Snail mucin
A K-beauty classic. Hydrates, helps skin feel smooth and bouncy, and supports recovery after breakouts. Good for: dry, dull or dehydrated skin.

Rice
Rice water and rice extracts have been used in Korean beauty for generations to soften skin and brighten its look. Good for: dull or uneven skin.

Ginseng
An energizing root packed with antioxidants. Helps tired-looking skin look fresher and firmer. Good for: dull or mature skin.

Brightening

Vitamin C
An antioxidant that brightens the look of dull skin and dark spots. Tip: use in the morning under sunscreen. Can tingle on sensitive skin, so start slowly.

Niacinamide (vitamin B3)
An all-rounder. Helps even out skin tone, refine the look of pores and balance oil. Good for: almost every skin type.

Smoothing and firming

Retinol
A form of vitamin A that helps smooth texture and the look of fine lines. Watch for: use at night only, start 2–3 times a week, and always wear sunscreen the next day. Talk to your doctor before using it if you're pregnant or breastfeeding.

Bakuchiol
A plant-based alternative to retinol that's gentler on sensitive skin. Can be used morning or night.

Peptides
Short chains of amino acids that help skin look firmer and smoother. Gentle and easy to combine with other ingredients.

PDRN (salmon DNA)
A newer K-beauty favorite, usually taken from salmon. Used to help skin look healthier and more resilient. Watch for: not vegan.

Clearing

Salicylic acid (BHA)
An exfoliant that works inside pores to help clear breakouts and blackheads. Good for: oily and breakout-prone skin. Shop acne care

Tea tree
A plant oil used to calm spots. Usually found in spot treatments and pimple patches. Shop spot treatments & patches

Good to know

  • Don't start several strong ingredients at once. Retinol, vitamin C and exfoliating acids can irritate when combined. Introduce them one at a time.
  • Patch test every new product on a small area first.
  • If you have a skin condition, talk to a dermatologist before changing your routine.

New to Korean skincare? Start with K-beauty 101.